In this video you will learn how to thin hair with thinning shears using different techniques. Using hairdresser thinning scissors is an important tool for hair professionals to master as they are very useful for creating specific effects. This is not a haircut tutorial but rather education how to remove bulk, thin thick hair and create texture. Russell Mayes, Director of Content for JATAI, goes through each step of the techniques used. If you want to know how to use texturizing shears watch this tutorial and follow along with the transcript.

How to Thin Hair with Thinning Shears:

  Welcome back to the Jatai Academy! Another technical deep dive today where we're going to focus on the thinning or the texturizing scissor. We want to focus on how to properly use it and all the creative ways that you can use it to get different types of results. So let's get started. Now we're going to start with our Tokyo Thinning Scissor and you'll notice it has two tangs. That way I can have the cutting blade on the top or I can turn it over and have the cutting blade on the bottom underneath. If I have the cutting blade underneath, I can take more cuts and it won't force the hair into the teeth of the blending shears so I can thin it more repetitively without always having to remove the blade and go back in for a fresh cut. I can hit the same area at one time without the hair clogging up the blade.  

Creating a Blunt Line with Thinning Scissors

So say for instance that I want to go through and cut a more bluntish line. We've done a technical deep dive where we've done point cutting versus straight cutting. And the point cut, while it's not that much different, it gives it a softer line so it moves more. So I can do a similar effect with my thinning scissor if I just put the straight blade underneath, comb down and now the teeth has come out and it has not clogged up the teeth of my thinning scissor. So I can go through multiple cuts as I'm going across and cut that fairly blunt. Now it's going to be a softer almost blurry type of line versus if I was to go through and point cut it or cut it straight across with a straight scissor. So I get kind of a defocused line, but I still end up with a blunt line. So let's go through and do that here to create our shape on the bottom. There's my guide. It's very easy. I put the cutting blade underneath and just go straight across. And I'll move the scissor inward as I'm going through and cutting across. Now you'll say, oh my gosh, this is going to wear my thumb out. Well you do have to have a little bit of scissor dexterity but you pick that up pretty quick and I can go through and make a nice diffused soft line. I can hear you saying now 'Well when would I want to use this?' Well there's going to be instances where say that they have really really thick coarse straight hair whereas if I was to just go through and cut this completely blunt with a straight scissor I'm going to have a broom-like effect. It's going to stack that line. It's not going to have any movement. It's going to be very very stiff. Whereas if I go through and cut it with this thinning scissor, texturizing scissor like this, I can get a blunt-ish line but it's defocused. So it has a little bit more movement. It has a little bit more softness to it and even though the hair is very very thick it won't stack out like a broom. It'll give it a little bit of bevel. Whereas if I were to point cut it, it would bevel it a lot more so there's a balancing act that goes on between it. Now another thing that I can do when I'm going to go through and texturize and thin hair because not always am I going to thin.  

Texturizing Hair for Movement with Thinning Scissors

Sometimes I just want to texturize the hair to create movement. I don't necessarily want to go through and just shred it all out and thin it. Sometimes I want to thin it. So how do you thin hair with thinning shears? And how does hair thinning work? So say for instance I want to texturize this and thin this out so it's not quite so blunt. So I'll put the teeth underneath and just go through horizontally eight or ten cuts down. Now that goes through thins that section out and makes it much softer. As long as you have a nice seamless thinning scissor like the Tokyo Texturizers here, you won't see any kind of cut lines that go through here. It will just go through and thin it out. So I'll start a little thicker and then I'll go down to where I get it as light as I want and have as much movement and as thin as I want. Now you'll say 'Well how deep shall I go?' I don't like to go... now right here you start to see that getting a little thinner? So I will focus my texturizing on the right side of the section not on the left side of the section so I don't thin this into oblivion. So back to the other question is 'how deep will you go?' So if I have a section that's this deep, I can push the hair and see where it starts to arc and then and I won't go deeper than about halfway of that curve because if I go deeper than halfway of that first initial curve, that's where the hair starts to get alfalfa and stick up. Now here I'm going to move on to my next section and I'm going to incorporate a different type of texturizing. I'll put my cutting blade underneath with the tooth blade on top, find my guide is about right here. So now when I go to thin I will go back and forth an area of about an inch. I'm not cutting everything blunt like I was underneath. I'm just going through and varying the depth across that whole section. So now I've gone through and cut my section and you'll see it's much more wispy and more razor-like on the ends and that gives me a really nice seamless kind of blend without any kind of thickness and that's just by varying my cut up and down about an inch. So there's my length I want to go. I'll go down a little bit, up a little bit, up and down, up and down until I get it about the length that I want. If there's any long pieces that hang over we'll just go through and take those off as well. Now I've got a really really soft line without any kind of bluntness to it just by varying the interior cut.  

Internal Texturizing with Hairdressing Thinning Scissors

So now say that I want some internal texturizing. There's a couple of ways I can do this. I'll pull out a vertical section. I'll see where it's thicker, where it's thinner, where it's thicker and thinner, and I'll go through at an angle in about halfway. Just go through and take some hair out. Where it's thicker I may hit it a couple of times and this will go through and remove some weight and make that much more movable and pliable and livable so it won't have that stiffness to it that these mannequin heads can get a lot of times. And this will go through and evenly thin it because I'm taking a vertical section. I'm not going left or right. Everything is being held straight out. Before when I was cutting everything horizontally I was creating no movement left or right. This, I'm not creating movement either. If anything, I'm creating an undercut with this because of the angle that the scissor is going into the hair. You'll also notice that as I hit it with a scissor, I don't want to keep fitting the same hair so I'll pull that out of the way so I don't end up haphazardly thinning it more times than I want. If the hair is really thick, I'll open the scissor, leave the hair in my hand and then thin it again. But I want to be very very mindful about how I'm applying my thinning to each section of the hair. So say this is thick, I'll open it and then hit it again. Open it. Hit it again. Open it. Hit it again. Then pull it out here. I'll just pull out, just pull out that way I start to thin the hair. I give it a little bit more of an undercut a little bit more of a bevel because of where I'm thinning it from. So that's another technique that we can use.  

Side Swept Bangs

Now I want to go through and take some length off and build my shape around the face and then put some internal texture to create movement to where it flows back out of the face. So we're going to start in the middle. I'll find something around our nose. I will go through and texturize the ends to where I start to remove some length but by going up and down with my thinning, I'm going to create all kinds of softness right here at my guide length by moving in and out. I'll pull everything forward, angle that down. There's my guide length. I want to make sure I'm getting longer towards the edges but I still want this a little you know a little heavy. That's why I'm holding it down. If I wanted it lighter I could hold it up but I want this a little heavy and solid so we're holding it down. You got that. Now we'll pull this forward. There's my length. Start diffusing the cut line from where I want my line to start building and then diffuse that down. We've got a good little basic shape. It's still too solid and heavy but that's a good basic shape. Same thing on the other side. Now let's go through and put some internal movement with the hair thin scissors. So let's start here in the center. That's going to create some movement internally going away. Subscribe to our YouTube channel, give us a thumbs up if you like the video and click the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai content.   Now when I brush that I start to create that movement where it's moving back out of the face and you can certainly start to see how that's rolling. If I have something here that's just hanging a little bit too much, let's go through and take that a little bit. We're going to take a little more out of here, just rolling my fingers out of the way. Creating that softness and movement going back and then the same thing on the other side. Now the good thing about the Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissor is it is only removing maybe 15 to 20 percent of the hair each time that I hit it. So I'm not going to go through and completely disappear the hair from one shot of the thinning scissors. So that gives me a lot more versatility and I can go through and soften this line slowly and incrementally until I get it to the texture that I want. If I use a thinning scissor that has too many teeth or the teeth are too fat then I can go through and really just shred the hair and completely remove all the weight and all the length in just a few shots. So learn with your thinning scissor how much you can take, and then use that to your advantage. I like the overall shape and everything that I've got going on.  

Cutting the Bangs

I just think her bangs are just too long so I'm going to go through and cut this a lot shorter and I want it to look like she's cut it herself, like it was a mistake. So I'm gonna go through and not try to make this real perfect. I'm going to have some of it a little longer, some a little shorter. and I'm going to be really really haphazard about this which is something from beauty school that we're trained 'oh don't cut the bangs too short.' So now we're going to try to break out of that mold of cutting the bangs too short and just see what we can create that's a little bit more haphazard, a little more choppy and a little less perfect. Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather And there we're beginning to get something a little more cute, a little more Japanese. So now we'll go through, slide cut through to create an even amount of weight around the front. Using thinning shears this way will force some separation because if I just texturize it, it tends to diffuse everything so by going through and slide cutting, point cutting like this, I'll create a little bit more separation because of the way it's being cut now. It's not going to be a real strong separation like if I was using a straight scissor, but it gets the same sort of effect.  

Recap on How to Thin Hair with Thinning Shears

I think that covers a lot of the bases on how to cut hair with a thinning scissor or texturizing scissor like the Tokyo Scissor from Jatai but it also gives us a lot of room for creativity and a lot of different ideas.

• We can see how to create a blurry diffused blunt line. We can also go through and create a line that has a lot more texture to it and a lot more bevel.
• We see how to put internal texturizing to where it doesn't create any movement.
• We see how to put internal texturizing to where it does create movement, gets this hair kind of flowing back out of the face.
• We also see how we can go through and diffuse a blunt line that's been put in that we don't necessarily want that blunt.
• And we can also see how to go through and create separation by almost slide cutting but you have to go through and use your scissor action to get that scissor to go through.

I hope this has helped. I hope it's a broadened your horizon on how to use hair thinning shears and if you have any questions or comments please leave it below and check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there to make you a better hair stylist and barber. So we'll see you next time and thank you so much for watching! If you want to buy thinning scissors check out the JATAI Tokyo Thinning Scissors by BMAC.

The wolf haircut is a popular, trendy style that women love. Wolf cuts are beautiful and feminine. Wolf cut hairstyles are characterized by longer layers and differs from a shag haircut in that the front section completely disconnected from the overall length. Wolf haircuts can be done on various hairstyles, hair texture and lengths. They can be done on short hair, long hair, straight hair, wavy hair, curly hair, fine hair and thick hair. It works will hair colors and hair types. You just might have to make a few adjustments to achieve the desired results. You can add different types of bangs like curtain bangs or side swept bangs. It also looks good with many face shapes. The wolf cut haircut can also be combined with other styles like the mullet or shaggy looks for a blend of two different styles. It's a versatile haircut! Watch this soft wolf haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.

Soft Wolf Haircut Tutorial: 

  Welcome back to the Jatai Academy! Today we're going to be doing a version of the wolf cut I like to call the soft wolf cut. And we're going to start here checking out her hair seeing what we got. We're going to go through and section off an area in the nape. We're going to start with our Feather Plier Razor because I want as much control over my cut line as possible. So we're going to start in the nape here from the occipital to the mastoid. This is going to be my perimeter length and the length of the overall cut.  

Establishing the Perimeter Length

So we're going to start pulling everything straight down taking a broad stroke with my razor going back and forth. Since I'm in the middle, this is going to be my neutral my most neutral section. So combing that straight down getting my line cut and then continuing on to the right side and then to the left side. So keeping a broad stroke because I want these pieces to separate. So the broader the stroke the softer the end result is going to be and the more separation that I can create. So in the center I'll cut from left to right in the middle. And then on the right I'll cut from the inside the center towards the right side. On the left side I'll cut from the inside towards the left side. That way I can keep my movement the same on both sides of the head just being patient and diligent to make sure I get my lengths similar on both sides. There we got a little bit longer there on the right side. So just whittling that down until I get this to where I feel like it's the length that I want and it's flowing like I want.  

The Front and Face Framing

Now we're going to move up the head. We're going to section from the drop crown to the top of the ears and we're going to comb everything down. We're going to follow our previously cut guide starting in the center and then working out towards the edges around the front. Again, just following our guide using a broad stroke with the razor then pinching off any little bits that hang out a little longer than I don't like. And then continuing the same methodology to cut my length throughout the entirety of the haircut. Here we'll take the rest of the hair, comb everything down and anything that hangs over our original guide length will cut off and you'll see I'm cutting from the interior towards the front. Same on both sides. Now we're going to start our face framing around the front. We're going to take a section from the first bump of the head down to the high point of the ear. Gonna separate that in the middle and I'm going to take my initial length that I want the shortest layer to be. That's going to be somewhere around her nose and then we're going to start cutting down vertically straight up and down right in the center of her face. So I'm combing all the hair over into the middle of her face holding the section vertically and then cutting from my shortest guide length straight down. And I want to keep the same broad razor stroke so that I have a consistent amount of softness for the entirety of the haircut. So what really separates a wolf cut from a shag is that this section here on the wolf cut is completely disconnected from my overall length. So it does not have to blend to the length of the hair that I have in the back. And the less that it blends the more edgy that the cut is. So you can go really really short around the front and make it really stand out or you can leave it softer and longer like I am but it's still going to disconnect from the back. So I'm visualizing where I want the hair to fall and I'm thinking around the collarbone is where I want this front length to fall. So as I go through and get my initial cut in I want to check and see how it's falling see how it's flowing around the front and then modify my approach as I need to. So I feel like that's a little solid around the fringe around the bang area so I'm going to go through and channel some sections just to relieve the weight and to help that hair to separate into pieces and to cut it a little shorter right into the center. So I'm just going to take sub sections, hold it forward, channel through, release the weight and force it to separate. Perfect. Once I feel like I've got that where I want it to fit now where I want it to flow I'll do the same thing on the other side. And this haircut, what really makes it interesting is the separation on the tips. That's what makes any of these shag cuts interesting. And you have to use a razor to get that type of texture. So if you don't already follow us on YouTube, please click the subscribe button, give us a thumbs up and also you know the notification bell to be notified of any future content that we come out with. Now we're going to continue that same section which is her left side. We're going to pull everything forward. Now from here I'm going to use my center piece right and the shortest part of her bang as my guide length that I'm starting from. And where I'm going to is the overall length that I created when I cut my first sections in the back. So, this is going to be connected at the very center of my fringe, the center of the bangs and then disconnected all the way down to my overall length. So the first section I undercut and that's going to pop out and force that to separate. The next section here is blending through to the guide length in the back. And here you can really see how I took that section. I took the high point of the head right down to the corner of the hairline and the nape using my short piece as my guide and then just completely visualizing cutting that short down into blend to my overall length. Work this all the way through until I get everything blended.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now we're going to start on some layering I'm going to pull a center section, pull that straight up towards the ceiling. Using my shortest piece as a guide in the front where I cut my bangs, I'm going to cut that straight back. So anything that hangs over that length we're going to pull straight up and cut off. We're going to razor that with a similar stroke that we were using for our overall length and for our layering around the front. Now if I feel like the hair is really really long I can certainly change the angle of my layering on the top. But here I'm just going straight horizontally across as I pull everything straight up towards the ceiling. Now we're going to pivot our section from the high point of the head. Now we're going to pivot from the high point of the head around to the right side of the head and we're going to make a pie section. And as we start to pivot I'm going to hold everything into the center of the original cut guide and the new cut guide and then use that as a guide length and raise that throughout so that I get a layering blend from short to long. And here I just continue to pull everything straight up. By over directing everything straight up you're at a much higher elevation that's going to relieve a lot more weight than if I was to pull it out at 90 degrees head shape all the way down the back of the head. So here we're going to pivot to my next section. There's my short pieces as my guide we're going to pull that up razor that out and through. Now if you're not comfortable using a Feather Plier Razor or a guardless razor, then you can certainly go through and start doing this layering technique with the Feather Styling Razor because it has a guard built into it so it's a lot less likely that you're going to cut yourself. Here we're going to pull everything back. You see there's not anything that's really going to blend because we've cut all this around the front. So everything's good. Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side after I check that my layering is nice and even throughout.  

Blow Drying and Final Look

I'm liking the way that that's looking so now let's blow it dry. So I'll start by just pulling everything forward to get the bangs kind of back. I'm going to power dry it make it real neutral and then just go through and do a little round brushing to make sure everything is smooth and nice and got a little bit of bend to it. And here's our end result and I think we've got a nice good amount of layering into the back. It's nice and full. We've got separation throughout and also check out the Jatai Academy. There's a lot of really great information on there that'll make you a better hair stylist or a better barber. You can really see the disconnection from the front to the back here. I think it looks pretty good. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and we'll see you next time. Thank you so much! The wolf haircut is a trendy yet classic style with choppy layers for volume and texture. Whether it's a short wolf or a long wolf, this haircut looks good on many women. This tutorial demonstrates a soft long length wolf haircut using a razor. See our store for the Feather Plier Razor.  

A short shag haircut men style is not your typical classic, clean haircut. A shag haircut for men is cool, stylish, has a vibe and lots of texture. The male shaggy hairstyle is very much an LA look. When cut on a man, the shag hairstyle is short but longer than many other types of men's haircuts. It usually requires at least a little bit of grooming and styling to give it that natural volume. Shaggy mens hairstyles are popular in today's hair looks. Watch and follow along with this mens short shaggy hair tutorial and transcript.  

Short Shag Haircut Men Tutorial:

Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. Today we're going to be doing a shaggy mens haircut with our Feather Plier Razor. That's the one without the guard, and we're going to be doing a masculine shag shape, something that's very LA. So let's get started. Take a natural or center part where it's flat from the first hairline in, which is about right there. I'm taking at that angle. So I'm going to take a center triangular section. And then because I'm leaving a lot of texture in it, I'm going to leave it longer than I think, and also the more texture that I put into it the shorter that it's going to feel.  

Razor Cutting from Front to Back

So I'm going to go about from his eyeball to the tip of his nose and cutting that through. And then I'll look at it and see how that's going to look. And I think a little bit shorter for the kind of look we're going for, not a lot shorter but a little bit shorter and a little more texture right around the front. Alright, so we've got that. That's going to be our guide and I'm going to go to about the bottom of the ear. So I'm going to pull everything forward. There's my length. Angle my fingers to the bottom of the ear and then we're going to go through channel cut this down and through. Now when it comes to shaggy hair for guys, this differs from a female shag in that the female shag I tend to pull everything forward and go short to long. Here I'm going to angle the front and at the ear I'm going to go short to long. So we're pulling this parallel to my parting. There's my ear so I've got a little bit of a guide of where I'm going to put my texture in and then cut my length. See how that shapes up. That's looking pretty good. Next section parallel to my parting, put my texture in then cut my length. If I need to cut a little more length off no problem. Here at the ear I'm going to take a little more length off. That's looking pretty good.   Follow us on your favorite social media platform @jataifeather   We're going to go through, add a little Blade Glide to make sure everything's evenly saturated and then I'm going to follow the same pattern on this side. Find where the second flat is, go through there. From here, as I continue to work back I'm going to raise my elevation. The first section I held down here. The next section I'm going to hold at that elevation off the peak curvature of the head. So that's going to bevel my shape around the front. So it's not going to be heavy and hard. It's going to be cutting a curved line into it. So I'll take a center flat section. Hold that out. There's my line. Cut that down and through. We got a little whisper right there. Check that and I'm liking the way that's looking so we're going to continue on the same pattern, making sure I got the right elevation. There's my guide from underneath. Channel cut that through. So this is as much about getting the right texture as it is getting the right length and the right movement. There's my line underneath. There we go. Pull that forward. There's my line. Same thing on the other side. So the next section I'm going to take is going to go to the corner of the hairline from the next flat part of the head which is usually the high point of the head. Remove some previously cut hair but still make sure I have enough for a guide. Pull that forward at my elevation. There's my section. Same kind of stroke that I was using before. Make sure I got the right elevation. There's my guide falling out. Cut that forward and through. Last section at the top of the ear. There's my guide forward and through making sure I get all of that like I want. Now as soon as I get behind the ear I'm going to change the angle whereas before I'm working at this angle going back shorter in the front, longer in the back. Now I'm going to go much more vertical with my section using this length as my guide. So instead of pulling here and continuing shorter which is going to leave me longer in the back and it's going to make a point. I want to pull everything forward and then this angle is going to go straight up and down. Just like that. I don't have a whole lot of hair so I don't need to texturize that but we're going there. That way I can go through and cut the back at whatever length that I want if I want to leave it really long and mullety or if I want to bring it much more shorter. But it allows me to leave a corner when the hair transitions from the front to the back it allows hair to be seen from the front. So it leaves this little corner through here. Same thing on the other side. We're going to continue to follow the same pattern that I was doing before. I went down to the corner of the hairline in the last section. Now I'm going to go halfway between the center and the corner of the hairline. Parallel to my section, anything that hangs over cut that off. If it needs some texture, we'll put some texture into it. Not a whole lot once I get to the top of the ear. Pull that forward. There's my line. Not a whole lot to cut off but I will cut this perimeter length in the back when I make sure everything blends with the sides.  

Shaggy Male Haircuts - Razor Cutting the Back

Okay so we're going to start right down the center and then we're going to take a horizontal section. Maybe not that thick. I want enough thickness to provide me with enough hair to get a good grip and cut on but not so much that it becomes difficult for the razor to push through. Start right in the center, pull that down and through, starting about halfway bringing that down and a channel and then cutting my length off. So we're going to go here. Same sort of thing. Work all the way through. You notice that my left hand doesn't really move. I will roll my fingers out of the way but as I'm cutting I don't cut and move my left hand. I want to keep that as stationary as possible. So now let's go through and continue up. We're going to take our next flat parallel section. As I continue up, there's my length. Go through. Continue to texturize and separate as I cut.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now here you'll start to see some elevation in my section. Right there, there's my guide length from underneath. Same channel cutting and then cutting the length off to get separation and pieciness to my section. There's my guide. Now I would bet there's not going to be a whole lot of hair here as we continue further up it's going to reach. But we're going to take our next section and it's not going to reach.  

Short Shaggy Haircuts for Men - Defining with Scissors

So that is looking pretty good. So I got the basic shape in and I think it looks pretty good. I think we're right on with it, but I want to make these pieces more defined. So I'm going to go through with my Osaka Scissors from Jatai and I'm going to go through and slide cut and point cut this through to make these pieces a little bit more defined. And I'm just going to go through and take my time and randomly go through and select. I'll go down. I'll go up a little bit. Now I'm not going to try to make these like real perfect, but I definitely want to get a little more definition through this cuz sometimes when you go through and you razor something you can diffuse the hair a little bit too much. And I want to make sure that I still have a little bluntness in the ends so that we can get that flickiness and that separation. And refining my sides to the back a little bit more. Come on baby. Stop moving. There we go. Refine that through a little bit more. Around the eye you got to be careful. So if it's a real person what I'll do is I'll go through and put my hand here and then point cut into it so I don't have to worry about gouging their eye out. There we go. Now here I'm going to go through and do the same thing internally. So I'm going to brush everything over one way, go through, slide through, add a little bit of bluntness internally to help that internal texture pop a little bit more.  

Final Short Shag Haircut Men Look

I think we're not looking too bad. We got the basic shape in it. We got a nice little bit of texture to it. Well a nice lot of bit of texture to it. And that's the whole thing is this shape is a really neutral shape but it just has a lot of texture to it and it has this length over the ear that you can kind of tuck behind, but you also want to be able to see that length from behind from the front. So I think that's the key point to shaggy hairstyles for guys. You can style it to where it's a little bit wild and free or you can style it much more smooth. Your choice. Whatever you feel is right. So please check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there that make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also, leave a comment. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and we will see you next time. Thank you so much.  

Final Thoughts

Shag haircuts for men are fun, stylish and modern. Shaggy haircuts for guys can work with straight curly hair styles. Mens shaggy haircuts can be worn with or without facial hair and look good with various hair color. Male shaggy hairstyles are often worn tousled and styled to give the shape some dimension, extra pieciness and texture.

This inspired Prince haircut is a fun take on asymmetrical haircuts. This spicy style is far from boring. By making the left and right sides asymmetrical, you get a funky, fun and trendy haircut. Prince had many hairstyles, many of which were iconic but the asymmetrical look was always a standout. In this video, you will learn how to give this Prince cut using a Feather Styling Razor with a little scissor over comb. Watch this video tutorial and follow along with the transcript.

Asymmetrical Prince Haircut Tutorial:

  Welcome back to the Jatai Academy! Today we're going to be doing a study of asymmetry, what makes a haircut asymmetrical versus a symmetrical haircut that appears asymmetrical and how to fit that to the head shape. So we're going to study some head shape and we're going to study some hair cutting so let's get started.  

Understanding Asymmetrical Haircuts

Now when we look at asymmetrical haircuts on the internet a lot of times what we're going to see is basically things that have just been undercut and the top of the head is disconnected and it flops to one side or the other giving the appearance of being an asymmetrical haircut but it's actually symmetrical. Then you go back into like the 80s where Prince had his you know asymmetrical thing where one side was cut short and the other side was kind of a bobbish kind of graduated bob look and the whole left side was long and the whole right side was short. So when you're doing anything like that where you're going to have some asymmetry whether it's a symmetrical cut or an asymmetrical cut, the most important thing is fitting it to the head. If it doesn't fit the head then it always looks a little funky so in studying the head shape first thing I want to pay attention to is separating the front half of the head from the back half of the head.  

Planning Out the Prince Haircut

So I've got everything separated like I want. I've got the front separated from the back and I got the back split in half. So now I'm going to take a smaller section. I've already got this short graduation underneath so I want to change the angle of that because this is a pretty low kind of bob stack graduation and I want to bevel that out because I want to put a lot more texture in it. So I'm going to start in the center and I'm going to keep that even until I get to the corner of my hairline and then I'm going to pull everything back to that so I can start building my length on the left side at that point. On the right side I'm going to keep everything even all the way over and I'm probably going to end up cutting this side really short.  

Razor Cutting the Back

So now I'm going to go through and start cutting the back. I'm going to hold this out and I want to make sure I keep it at that elevation and then just choose whatever length that I think would be appropriate and cut that down and bevel that line. Right through here what's a little tough I'll just go through and cut on the inside of my fingers. Now I've started to bevel the shape. I will go through and take a parallel section on the left side, pull this to the center of the first section and the second section. Pull that out and through. Work that down until I run out of hair. Now I'm going to remove the first section. I have my second section that I've cut right there. I will add my third section, comb these two to the center of both of those sections. There's my guide. Cut that through. Check that out. That looks good. Remove the second section. Now I have the third. I'm moving into the fourth section. I'll comb to the center, keep my elevation proper. Work that down and through with my Feather Styling Razor. I'm using the R-Type Blade so it exposes more blade so it gives me a cleaner easier cut. I do have to be more mindful because I could cut myself. Now at this point it's right over the corner of my hairline. So now here I'm going to pull this hair back into my fourth section. So fifth is being pulled into the fourth. Work that down through. Make sure I got that cut like I want. Now I'm going to comb down, check everything. I start to see a little buildup of length right there behind the ear. Now I'm going to go through to the other side. I'm going to start with my center section. And I'm going to do the same thing I did to the left side on the right side except when I get to the corner I'm not going to pull that back. I'm going to continue to walk that around so this part here is going to get shorter than the other side. So now I'm going to move on to the rest of the back and I'm going to do the same thing. I'm going to take a center section, start in the middle, hold this horizontally out and then cut anything that hangs off over that. Here's my guide dropping out.   Follow us on all your favorite social media @jataifeather.   Take that short and the idea behind this is I want this whole thing to bevel around the head. I don't want to build up a whole lot of corner in the back. I just want the weight. So by me pulling it out I get the weight. The razor softens it and by me following my elevation which is this elevation I bevel that whole shape in the back. Now I'm going to pivot from the center, do the same thing as I pivot around to the left side. There's my guide, work that through. Now this last section remember I pulled everything back to the corner of the hairline so I'm going to continue to do the same thing here. Pull this back to the corner of the hairline. There's my length cut that down and through to make sure I have my length build up as I'm going towards the front. You can certainly see that building up through there but yet I still have a nice bevel around the back.  

Addressing the Top and Sides

So now I'm going to do the same thing on the other side following my guide. Okay now want to see where the hair wants to separate naturally so I'll brush everything back see where it wants to kind of fall through here, what I can get away with. I want as much hair going over to my left side as possible and I want to keep this right side as short and as clean and as light as I can but that's going to depend upon the way that the hair grows and the head shape. So I want to keep combing that back. I think I can get away with about right there so we're going to comb all of this over based upon the way the hair grows and I don't want to go too low on this side of the head because then it's going to start to look like a comb over but if you're going for that emo comb over then I can go lower. I'm going to comb this straight out from the head see where I want that length to fall. I want to keep this very soft so I'm going to go pretty short. I can go as short as I want. I just want to make sure that this is at least exaggerated so it really pops. The shorter that I go here the longer and more exaggerated the other side is going to look. So, I'll look and see say okay is that short enough. If it is, I'll keep moving. If not, I'll take it shorter. So, I'm not sure so let's try a couple of sections and see how it does. So here I'll walk this section back, continue to use my previously cut section as my guide and continue to work that back until I run out of hair and everything blends. I can't get that in there as tight as I want so I'm going to move on to my Tokyo Thinning Scissors and I'm going to do a little scissor over comb to fit this underneath here shorter. It will maintain that same sort of razor texture. Just going to take me a few more scissor strokes and a little bit more time to make sure I get everything fit in there nice and smooth and clean and this is going to be purely visual whatever my creative inspiration is going to determine looks good. You may like this a little shorter. You may like this a little longer and that's all okay. Take a parallel section to what I was using before. Now you can see that length overhanging that. So from here I'm going to pull this straight out from the head use my guide length from the back and cut that guide length going forward. It's still going to be slightly disconnected but it's certainly going to blend a lot better than if I leave that. So what I'll do is I'll go through cut a little bit, make sure it blends in with the back here, comb it, see how it's blending, see how it's going to flow both ways. That's okay. Take my next piece.   Give us a thumbs up if you like the video, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai content.   Take some of that off so it's not such an extreme disconnection. My next piece there's very little. Got a little bit right there. We'll work that through. Now here I'm going to start on the long side. I'm going to pull everything straight back to where I was cutting it before. You see my guide length there underneath and I'm going to take a very very broad stroke and take anything that hangs over that guide length from the back off and everything is going to get pulled back to that corner of the hairline. So now we've got this longer piece here. You can see it's certainly starting to develop some length in the front. Now to make sure that this fits in, I think that's probably a little bit heavy in the front. So let's take a little bit more weight out of the front. Pull that through. Channel some of this out so I leave length but I'm taking out weight and creating separation. We'll take our next piece. A little bit less it doesn't need as much but I want to make sure I still have separation that's going to compare to that first piece I cut right around the front. Now we're going to take the rest of the hair on top in sections and parallel sections to what I've cut underneath and I'm going to go through and fine tune and fit that in just like I did underneath. A little bit right there. A little bit right there. There we go. There's a lot of bit right through there. That's looking all right. This is a little heavy. So after I cut my length to fit, I'm going to go through and channel some of that weight out, see if the weight is good around the front here which I think we need to take a little bit out here around the front. Comb that over see how that's looking. It's looking pretty good.  

The Bangs

I am going to go through and blend some of our bang here. I don't like the way that that's hanging out so I'm going to go through and blend some of that out and that will just be very gently razoring short to longer to get it out of the face. I think that's looking pretty good. Now let's go through and blow it dry and see what we got. Here's our end result. We got a nice little longer side on the left side of the head, fills in nice behind the ear, nice fitted in down at the nape. We got a little shorter bits in real clean behind the right ear to our shorter side. We've got a nice blend from our short little undercut bang over into the long side. And we've got a lot of separation, a lot of texture to really make that curl kind of stand out and I think it looks pretty good. I think it looks pretty cool. You look hip dear. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there to make you a better hairdresser and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we will see you next time.  

The Final Look

The ducktail haircut was a popular vintage 1950s hairstyle where the hair on the back of the head was shaped like a duck's tail. In this tutorial, it's not about any special ducktail comb or combing technique, but rather a step by step guide how to create this hairstyle with scissors. This men's coiffed hair has continued to remained an iconic look from the 50s. Watch this ducktail hairstyle tutorial video and follow along with the transcript in this article.

Ducktail Haircut Tutorial:

  Welcome back to Jatai Academy! I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content for Jatai and today we're going to be doing a throwback to the 50s with the ducktail haircut.  

Cutting the Sides

So we're going to start with a straight back section from the center of the recession that splits off the top of the head from the bottom of the head and we're going to use our Osaka Scissor because I will tend to take a larger section, so a little fatter blade and a sharper blade will make it easier to cut. I'm going to take an angled section that's going to follow the front hairline and cut that down at whatever my desired length is. I want a little bit of length so that the hair flows back. This haircut tends to look better with the hair that has a little bit of movement to it so. I'm walking my guide which means each section I take I'm combing into the previous section and cutting that as my guide. So I cut the first section. I comb section one and two together to make section two. I comb section two and three together to make section three. I comb section three and four together and so on until I reach the mastoid which is that bone right behind the ear. Now here you'll see me take the same section, the same angle and everything all the way down to the nape. And I will comb this into the previously cut section. Now at this point I can either leave it a little longer in the nape or I can taper it in. I'm choosing to taper this in slightly so most of my ducktail is going to be a little higher up. You're still going to get it all the way through the center which you know the ducktail is where everything is combed to the center and then right down the middle of the back of the head it's combed straight down. So I'm taking parallel sections as I work through the back of the head and I'm combing that to the previously cut section. Now you can see here how I'm tapering that down slightly but I'm still combing everything all the way over to where that mastoid is on the right side of the head behind the ear. I'll comb it back and check and start seeing how I build up a little bit of length and I want this length to build up as it's going towards the center of the head. So I'm taking parallel sections at the ear combing everything to the ear all the way down to the nape, just being very very methodical with each section that I take with each section that I cut. I want to keep it as consistent as possible you know and the Osaka Scissor tends to be nice, sharp. It's got a good blade length on it so it gives me a little bit of uh power behind each scissor stroke so I can cut more hair. As you'll see here I'm taking everything from the center of the head pulling it over right behind the ear and cutting that on top of my previously cut guides. Slightly tapering it a little bit as I get to the nape but still leaving that length build up in the center of the back of the head. Now let's go through and look at it, see how we're shaping up. We can see I'm getting that length in the center of the back. Now let's go through and cross check. I'm going to start right on top of the ear and since I cut this initially vertically I'm going to go through and cross check horizontally.   Be sure to follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather. We got Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest and even TikTok.  

Ducktail Haircut Horizontal Sections

Now after I finish cross checking the sides there, we're going to go through and take a horizontal section to the initial parting that I had. Now I'm going to take all the hair on top and pull over to my previously cut sections underneath. I'm holding this horizontally straight up from the head using my guide in the back as the shortest piece to make sure I blend in the back so I'm disconnecting it underneath as I get to the front of the hairline. Whatever that front bang length is, that's the length I'm cutting it to. I could leave it longer or I could leave it shorter it's really up to your preference on how you want the top of the hair to look. I'm going for a little bit of a pomp look so I want the front to be a little longer than it is in the crown. Now here you can really see how I'm blending the top into the back of the head and then just following my guide underneath being methodical point cutting that through so I have less worries about building up too much weight and it's going to blend a little bit easier. I want to keep the top really soft, textured, point cutted as opposed to going through and cutting it blunt. Then it's much harder to blend that way and I have to be far more precise. So keep following each section until I get all the way over to the center. Make sure that's cut. Now let's go through and taper it in right over the ear just a little bit more.  

Cleaning up the Sides and Nape

So I'm going to go through scissor over comb shorter at the uh parting right there, shorter at the sideburn and then tapering that up and just slowly working that up until I get that blended. Now I'm going to go through in the back. I'm just going to take a horizontal section right across the bottom and I'm going to cut that length that I built up from pulling it over to the side of the head off because I want this to be square in the back. Some people will leave it longer and allow that ducktail to flip out. I'm going to keep it much cleaner and more tapered into the back. After I get everything done there, I'm going to go through and do exactly the same thing on the other side.  

Creating the Ducktail

After I do the other side, I'm going to come back and take a center section right in the back of the head. This section I'm going to go through and create a completely new guide. I'm going to hold it out and cut this vertically following the head shape going up the back of the head. By leaving the center in the back shorter, that allows that length build up from the sides to comb over and separate from the center of the back and gives it that really distinctive ducktail look. I'll check it. I think it needs to be a little bit shorter so I'm going to take it a little bit shorter. But I'm just going to go through very systematically, cut the center of the back out. Now I'll start combing this down check it out see how it combs over. I think it needs to be a little bit wider so I'm going to take and extend that a little bit to the right and a little bit to the left. So I'll start with a small section in the center about an inch wide see how the hair combs over it. If I need a little bit more width to be undercut in the center of the back of the head, then I'll expand that section and take a little bit more. This is just purely going to be based upon visually how you want that to look from combing the hair on the sides over the center and seeing how that falls. That's looking pretty good. I'm getting that separation right through there. So I'll do the same thing on the other side extend that a little bit to make sure I have an even amount of width in the back of the head.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and click the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai video content.   Now here you can see I'm broadening the width on the left side of the head so it matches the right side of the head. Check that out. See how that's looking. That's looking pretty good.  

Addressing the Top

Now let's move on to the top of the head. Now since I've already cut the top by pulling it to the left and to the right to make sure it blends with the left and the right and the undercut I'm just going to go through and hold everything up right in the center, take a center section. From my length in the front, I'm going to cut that down so it gets a little shorter towards the crown so that the emphasis of the length is right around the front and then it starts to blend as it goes to the back. Now because I pulled everything over to the left and to the right most of the length is going to be in the center of the top of the head. So by cutting this first section I will have very little hair that reaches on either side so it's mainly I have to cut the center of the top out so that it blends like I want it to. I'll just check here make sure both sides are even pulling everything to the center following my center cut guide to make sure that that has a nice pleasing silhouette from the side profile.  

Styling and Finishing Touches

After we do this let's blow it dry and take a look at it. I'll just use a vent brush and blow dry everything in kind of a pompadour style and make sure everything gets blown back into the center blowing each side into the center. Now we're going to take our Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissors and go through and just blend where I did a little scissor over comb underneath there to make sure that's nice and soft and smooth through there. A little bit in the nape as well just to keep everything soft. I'm not going to go through and do the whole thing just right where I want it to taper a little bit more. Now we're going to go through and put a little bit of pomade on it just to get some separation right there in the front. We're going to pleat that front kind of pompadour to make it look a little more lived in and a little less Conway Twitty which is what this haircut really reminds me of. But this will keep it a little bit more modern and cooler and give it a little bit more of a distinctive look around the front. Overall, I think everything looks pretty good. I think we got a nice pleasing shape. The silhouette is really important when you're doing these pompadour type styles to have a good silhouette from a profile. And we're looking pretty good through there. Nice and tapered you can see how it's being combed into the center and then the center is being combed straight down so we got a nice little DA in the back. Check out the Jatai Academy! There's all kinds of great information on there to make you a better hair stylist. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and we will catch you next time. Thank you so much for watching.  

Final Ducktail Haircut Look

Vintage hairstyles of the 50's often had a distinct look. When it comes to the ducktail, we have that image of a higher pompadour look from the front and the sides combed in to the middle of the back. It's generally worn on straight hair rather than curly hair so that you can really see the ducks tails in the back. It's also distinctly characterized by greased back hair. The ducktail haircut is also known as a ducks ass haircut, duck haircut or DA duck hair. This push back hairstyle is a unique hairstyle from this time which hasn't really come back as a trendy look. However, the hair DA has remained an iconic look from this time period and will continue to do so.  

The JATAI hair teasing comb is a versatile tool that has many functions. If you do teasing, backcombing, detangling, create updos, do balayage and color melting, watch this video on how to use this ONE tool to do all of these. This is a professional teasing comb but really anyone can use it for teasing and detangling at home. Watch the hair teasing comb tutorial here or follow along with the transcript.  

JATAI Balayage and Hair Teasing Comb Tutorial:

  Welcome back to the Jatai Academy! Today we're going to be covering how to properly tease hair with the Jatai Teasing Pin Comb PRO. Let's get started.  

Using the Comb for Balayage

So the first thing I want to cover is how to tease for a balayage. Now when I'm teasing for a balayage I'm not looking for control or a compaction of teasing to build volume. I'm just looking to tease some of the hair out of the way so that my section is not so thick and it diffuses my color line. So that's what makes it easy to have a seamless color going from dark to lighter on the ends is by teasing and getting some of that hair out of the way. So I'll plant one finger on the bottom, two fingers on top, roll that out of the way. I'll take the Teasing Pin Comb Pro put in all the way through and then just gently and easily push this up to the scalp. First section all the way to the scalp. Next section may be not quite so far up. Third section maybe not quite so far up. Fourth section not quite so far up. So I'm not packing it all the way into the root. I'm packing it only enough to get it out of the way so that when I start to paint my color on, it's close as it's closer to the scalp as I need and it's also going to give me less hair to deal with down here. So when I put my bleach on it, I put my foil in and let it process that it doesn't get in the way of my color but also since I didn't pack it in it makes it easy for me to go through comb the teasing out after I shampoo the color out. Then I have a nice easy seamless process.  

Using it as a Hair Teasing Comb

Now to go through and create some teasing for volume it's a different approach. You know I have to really compact some hair to make sure that it gives me some structure and some resilience to make the hair stack up so that it forces the hair at the root to stick up so that that gives me my volume. So now we're going to go through and I'm going to put one finger on one side of the section, two fingers on the other side and I want to make sure I got that really tight. I'm going to over direct a little bit so that I can tease on base. We'll put my comb in however far I think I need to push down and I'm going to start to see how much of that texture in the hair is starting to compact. I'm going to go a couple of inches out all the way down to the scalp. So as I'm pushing down I'm pulling up. I'm going to pull the comb out. Again, all the way down to the scalp. Pull it out, comb everything back together tight. Now I can tell how compacted that is and that's already giving me quite a bit of volume through there. So from there if I want to just comb it and brush it and have that sticking up I could have a nice little puff right there in the front. Turn the teeth away, smooth that out, push. There we've got a nice little puff.  

Creating the Updo

But we're going to go through and do an up style and make something kind of big so I can control the hair as I'm styling it up, not just creating volume. I'm going to take a little bit underneath that at a little triangle section. Where I started my teasing on the first section which was about right there, I'm going to start my teasing on this second section. Again, everything straight down to the scalp. If I did three teases on the first, I'm gonna do three teases on the next one. Pin that up out of the way. Comb everything together. Alright, after I've got everything kind of smoothed in I got one piece I'm going to do a little bit of teasing there just to help it stick together. Comb that up. Take a hairpin put that right across however far out from the scalp I think I need to do. The further from the scalp, the bigger the curl is going to be. Now I'm going to grab this hair pull it out of the way, turn my pin upside down and pin it right to the base where I had my teasing. I'm going to hold that. I'm going to take another pin with a little ski tip pointing down, hold where my other bobby pin was, slide that right across it. Come on baby come on. Tell me if this hurts okay. Slide that right through so I'm going to interlock my pin so that stays. Now this little piece here I'm just going to tuck to hide out of the way. Alright so I got my first you know kind of little curl there. I'm going to take another little piece here.   Please follow @jataifeather on your favorite social media platforms!   I have my little triangular section. So now I'm going to split that in half. I'm gonna start on the side and do the same sort of compacting teasing all the way to the scalp. Add a little more all the way to the scalp. Pull the comb out every time. Get that hair out of the way. Comb the section together where I started the teasing. Comb all the way to the scalp. Come on baby, every time. And now we're going to do a little bit of back combing as I walk the section out. So as I walk the section out that allows that hair to clump together a little bit better so it doesn't want to separate. Take my pin put it in, pull this hair underneath. Take the pin flip over, pin to the base. Hold that with your other finger. Take your other pin slide directly across that and make sure that you crisscross so that you have a nice secure base. This little piece here that's sticking out I'm just going to take a smaller bobby pin. Put it in twist. Hide that in, that little curl. Take my next little triangular section get that compacted in. After I got the compaction I'll do a little bit of teasing as I go out towards the middle. Comb that together. Make sure that's looking good, put my pin in, twist underneath and then hold it. Another little section. Whoa.   Click subscribe if you haven't already. Give us a thumbs up if you liked the video and click the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now as I work into the side, you know, I need to cover up some of this little area here and I'm going to start dragging this and I need more control over the ends not just control for the root. So the initial compaction gives me a nice little bit of control at the root. It gives me something to pin into, right. But it doesn't give me control over the section. So what I'll do is after I do my compact teasing I'll pull that in the direction I want it to go and I'm going to start to very gently compact my teasing all the way to the tip and you can see there how that whole piece now wants to stick together a lot easier than me having everything kind of fall apart. So the teasing does a couple of different things. It creates the compaction at the root to give me something to pin into. But it also gives me a little bit of stiction when I start to comb the section out. So now when I take my pin and put it in, I can go through start to pin that in and now I have a nice whole little panel of hair that wants to stick together as opposed to everything just wanting to just fly apart. And it's just that little bit of teasing as I'm walking the section in the direction that I want it to go. So this is a larger section. So what I'll do is I'll do my compaction in sections. Once I get a good base there I'll take my next little piece where I started the combing where I started the teasing towards the scalp that's where I'll continue all of my teasing as I start to walk this section back. After I get my compaction, smooth that out a little bit get everything kind of going in the direction that I want and then gently walk that back combing out to kind of panel that whole section of hair together smooth on the surface. A little bit of spray. Smooth there. The rat tail helps smooth everything down. Find out where I want that to go which I'm thinking about right there. So let's go through, take here, twist, pin that underneath. And now this piece I don't even need to pin I can just tuck that under that little panel. And now we've come to our last piece. We're going to work this over and see what we can get out of this. I think I want to do something kinda big and bold maybe. I don't know we'll see. But the first thing I need to do is pack me a little bit of base in there so I can control it. I'll do three little teases. I'll add to that where I started the teasing, compact to the root. My last piece compact to the root. Now comb everything together where I started the teasing that way I don't comb out the teasing that I put in it. I've just uniformed the section to make it all one piece and then I'll start doing light little under combs from the back just to help compress this piece together so that it all starts to form one piece together as opposed to wanting to fall and separate. A little pin, twist under, slide that into the root teasing from the previous section. I'll take this piece here kind of worm it back a little bit, think where I want that to go. Here is another little pin, twist, slide that through, bury that in just to try to help that piece mold and flow into the rest. Now here I'll start to separate and start molding. So the teasing that I put in this at the root gives me the structure and then the root teasing as I start to compress that out starts to give me a little bit more moldability and ability to control it. A little bit of hairspray. Oh! right in my face! So after I've gone through and done that I got my little hair pins in to help mold the shape so I don't have to keep it real compressed and then I'll put layers of hairspray on it just to help it set in and hold. I think she looks pretty good. She's ready for a night out on the town to go to Olive Garden maybe even maybe even Red Lobster. Oh my goodness! Let's give us a review on our teasing techniques.  

Recap

First for color, for a balayage specifically, we want to do a long stroke tease but not compacted in real tight. All we're looking to do is remove density. So the Teasing Pin Comb really helps get me a nice even tease all the way from the tips into the root without compacting it in real tight so it's easier to remove after we rinse the color out. It also diffuses that line by packing in my teasing and makes it much more seamless. Now if I want to do some styling, you know that 60s kind of bouffant, you know fembot sort of thing where I want the hair flowy, I want to compact my teasing in really tight at the root at the crown so that I get that hairstyle sticking up off the scalp. So I will start by using the hair tease comb, teasing from two or three inches away from the scalp all the way compacted down to the scalp every time three or four or five times depending upon the thickness and the texture of the hair. After I've got everything teased in I can comb and brush all the hair together as long as I don't comb it from where I started my teasing. That way all the hair can flow and I still have my teasing compacted in at the scalp. If I want to do for up styling, I want to compact it into the scalp just like I did for my styling but then I can also feather that teasing out through the ends and give me much more control. So the teasing at the scalp gives me a structure of the shape that I can start pinning into. Teasing hair through the tips makes that whole panel much more structured and easier to mold and control so it will stay in. So what makes the hair stay is not the hairspray it's the teasing and the pinning that makes it stay so with the Teasing Pin Comb Pro I can really compact to them nice and tight. So check out the Jatai Academy! There's all kinds of great information on there to make you a better hair stylist or barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching.  

Final Look using the Jatai Hair Teasing Comb

  Here’s the final look after all the teasing and upstyling. There are many different tease combs but the JATAI Teasing Pin Comb PRO has a unique pin structure that allows you to easily tease quickly and efficiently. It's also designed to detangle that tease as well. If you've ever had teased hair, knowing how to comb out teased hair can be a second battle that is frustrating and difficult to deal with. This is the best teasing comb for thick hair and a good teasing comb for fine hair as well. But it's the best teasing comb for volume, detangling, backcombing, balayage and color melting.

When it comes to razored layers, there are different ways to create them. In this video you will learn a classic long layered haircut that uses a Feather Styling Razor to create beautiful razored layers on straight hair. The techniques mentioned and described in this tutorial are foundational and fundamental to any razor haircutter's knowledge. You can watch the video tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.

Razored Layers on Long Straight Hair:

  Welcome back to the Jatai Academy! Today we're going to be doing a razor layered haircut with some thinning scissors for texture.  

Cutting the Perimeter

We're going to start with a natural or center part straight down to the occipital bone to split the head in half. From the occipital bone to the mastoid bone right behind the ear, that's going to give us our baseline. I'm going to use my Feather Styling Razor because it's super sharp plus it has a built-in guard for safety. So I'm going to comb everything clean from the roots all the way down to the ends and then I'm going to go through and channel cut as I'm cutting the length. So I'll do a vertical channel and then when I get to the length I want, which is where my fingers are, I'll start cutting to the right and that's going to create separation and I'm going to cut length at the same time. I want to make sure her head is tilted slightly forward so I can get a little bevel on my length as I'm cutting it. Now I'm going to use the center length as my guide and do the same thing on both sides until I get all of the length cut to the length that I want. I want to keep this pretty long and the channeling allows me to really lighten the hair up without removing all of the length. So whenever you're trying to create something that has an airiness to it I have to walk a tight row between enough texture to create the lightness and the airiness and then enough solidity so that it still looks like she has as thick beautiful hair. Now I take my next section which is a parallel part to my first section which was the occipital to the mastoid. This is going to go from the drop crown to the top of the ears. I'll use my guide underneath and then hold my fingers, cut the length and then channel. So I'm showing you a couple of different methods of doing this. I can channel and cut the length all at one time. I can cut the length and then channel. Or I can channel and then cut the length. So I'm mixing it up throughout the whole thing.   Be sure to follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Just going to continue on cutting my perimeter length following the same methodology that I've been doing throughout the entirety of the haircut at this point, channeling, cutting my length. And I'm not really paying attention too much to how much weight I'm removing as long as I get the texture right. Now we're going to start our layering around the front.  

Bangs and Face Framing Razored Layers

I'm going to take where the bang section would be right at the top of the head in the front down to the top of the ears. That's going to separate all the hair that has the ability to fall in her face. I'm going to take a center section and I'm going to comb this out off the peak curvature of the head and then I'm going to take a very very long soft razor stroke and cut my guide length. I want to keep it fairly long because the more that I texturize and the more that I thin the hair, the shorter that it's going to appear. So I want to make sure that I leave a little bit of a safety net so that I don't end up with some bangs that look like she's really surprised or she's got a third grade picture where Mom and Dad cut her bangs a little bit too short because they couldn't get it even. So I take my guide length in the middle and I work that down towards the edges over the ear and I'm gradually getting longer as I go to the sides. I'm not worried about the guide length that I have in the back. I just want to get a general long length on the front and then as I work to the back I can increase my length to make sure I don't cut off all the length in the back. Right there on the front I wanted to take a little more hair out there. I thought it was a little thick. Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the left side using my guide in the center pulling the hair forward and down and then cutting my line short to long and using the same razor stroke that I've used throughout the entirety of this front section. I want something that's very long, a broad stroke that's very soft. Now I'm going to take a parallel section further back from the second flat part of the head right at the parting in the middle of the head going right to the mastoid right behind the ear pulling that forward at the same angle and then using my guide underneath. As I get to the bottom, I'm working my length to get longer so that I don't start cutting into my perimeter length in the back. Do the same thing on the right side. Just comb everything forward and down, follow my guide underneath and then work from short to long. Now you'll notice I'm cutting from the center of the head to the perimeter on both sides so it's always going centered down. On the right side I have to cross over my hand so that when I razor down I can continue with the same sort of razor stroke that I had on the other side. Just continue to follow my guide down until I start to run out of hair and until it blends into my length in the back. After I've run out of hair and I've got everything blended through, I'm going to go through it now and start using that length in the front as the guide for my layering.  

Cutting Razored Layers

I'm taking a center section. I'm going to hold that straight up towards the ceiling. There's my guide length in the front that was falling out from me combing it forward. I'm going to use that and cut my layering throughout. It's going to be shorter right here at the top of the head and then as I start to work back I'm going to angle my fingers so that that line gets longer as I'm going further in the back of the head. And as I start to round out I will still increase my angle so I save my length on the back. I'm creating a lot of layering but most of the layering here is going to be at the very very top of the head right at the high point of the head. And as I work back towards the center it's going to get longer and less layered. From here I'm using my center guide from the high point of the head. I'm pivoting down to the corner of the hairline combing those two sections together pulling it straight up at 90 degrees from the head and then using my center section as my guide and cutting anything that hangs over that off, keeping a very very broad stroke so I can keep everything nice and soft. Now at this next section I'm pivoting. I remove my original center section and now I have the second section and I'm creating the third section so that I have second and third sections together. You can see the corner of the hairline to the mastoid right behind the ear. This is allowing me to work my layering shorter in the middle and keeping that same length as I work towards the ears. If I converge everything by pulling it to the center it's going to get longer and heavier behind the ears and I want to keep this layering in the back very very broad and evenly layered around the back. So by walking my guide like this, I can keep all the layering consistent on both sides and consistent throughout.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe if you haven't already and click the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now from here I'll take my third section and I'm pivoting from the high point of the head right to the high point of the hairline over the ear. Right at the ear is going to separate the front of the head from the back of the head so this is going to be where my layering in the front starts to take over from the layering on top. So I'm going to have very very little hair that I need to layer through here and it's more of a formality just to make sure that I don't have anything that really hangs over the back. This section there should be very little if anything that hangs over what I cut around my quarter part. Making sure everything blends nice and through. My layering here it's nice and even across the whole back. It doesn't get longer towards the ears.  

Thinning Scissors

Now I'm going to take my Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissors that gives you the perfect balanced amount of thinning. And I'm going to go through and resection like I layered around the front just so that I can keep everything consistent. I'm going to pull the section forward and then I'm going to go through and start thinning vertically. I'll go through and take a little hair pull that out, take a little more hair pull that out, take a little hair pull it out. So I'm starting no deeper than halfway through the section. If I go deeper than halfway I run into the possibility of there being little alfalfas that will stick up especially if they have kind of curly or wavy hair. So I'll start halfway in the middle of the section. I'll hit it a couple of times as I work towards the tip. When I get to the very last part of that section at the very tip, I'll use my thinning scissor and pull that out of my hand so I can work into my hand and not thin the same hair over and over and over again. Here, I'm going to take out my section on the front. I'm not using a guide for this. I'm using the thickness of the hair to be my guide, how many hits of the thinning scissor that it needs to have. I'll continue to section, pivot that section around the back. If the hair is thicker I thin it a couple of more times. If it's thinner maybe I don't thin it quite as much and quite as deep but I definitely want to go through and remove a lot of the weight from the ends. By removing weight from the ends that's going to allow me to get a much more piecey look and it's going to remove all that stiffness that I get when I built my shape in the beginning if the hair is too thick. Thick hair doesn't move. Thinned textured hair moves.  

Blow Dry and Styling

Now we're going to go through and blow it dry. I'm just going to drag a round brush through it just to smooth everything out. The shape's already in it. The texture is already in it. I just want to polish everything off. Going through and smoothing out the front to make sure that the bangs don't stick straight up. If I see anything that needs a little bit more work here at this point when it's dry I can really see how much weight I need to remove and then I can adjust accordingly. Everything looks pretty good. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there that'll make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time!      

The Final Look – Long Razored Layers on Straight Hair

Here’s the final look. As you can see the long razored layers add texture and movement. But the layers are not overpowering. This is a classic long layers razor haircut.    

One of the most fundamental techniques you should know as a hair professional is how to cut a blunt bob. The scissor techniques needed to get a perfectly straight blunt line takes skill and practice. But once you master how to do a blunt cut you can use these skills to do different kinds of haircuts like a medium blunt bob or a short angled bobs. Watch this video tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.  

How to Cut a Blunt Bob

  Welcome back to the Jatai Academy! Today we're going to be doing an in-depth study of how to get a perfect solid one length line, all the things that you need to know, all the little tricks and all the habits that you need to practice to make sure that you can get a perfect one length blunt line and how to do a blunt haircut. So let's get started.  

Sectioning

The first thing I want to do is I want to go through and use a little bit of cutting lotion just to make sure that the hair has an even wetness, that it's easy to comb and glide everything through the hair so when I'm taking my sections and combing, I'm not fighting the sections. I like to use Jatai Blade Glide. It's nice. It's light and will not weigh down even the finest hair, but it constricts the cuticle and makes cutting so much smoother and so much easier. I took a natural center part down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid. If the hair is really thick I will separate this in half. Very rarely do I ever take this into thirds because most hair is not really that thick so that brings me to the first concept is you can't have a section that's too thick or too thin. If the sections too thick then it's going to create a whole lot of scissor push which I'll get to in a second. But if it's too thin as well it's not going to give you a clean enough solid line that you can build off of and it makes subsequent sections harder to match. So I want enough thickness to where I can't really see through it but I don't want so much thickness that it makes my scissors push. The next thing we want to focus on is having a very very sharp scissor. The sharper your scissor the cleaner the cut that you're going to be able to make and also the thicker the sections that you're going to be able to work with.  

Choosing the Right Scissor when Learning How to Cut Blunt Bob

I'm using the Kyoto Scissor from Jatai. It has a nice fat blade. It has enough scissor weight behind it that I can really get behind and make sure I have a clean cut. What you're going to see a lot of times when people cut hair is it's going to look like I cut, I go in cut, and I go in. So when I do it fast it looks like that, but in reality what I'm doing is I put the scissor in and as I close the blade I cut on the backstroke. This will compensate for the amount of scissor push that I'm going to get. A sharper scissor is going to require less backstroke which will give you a cleaner cut line. Also, the sharper the scissor is the cleaner that it's going to cut the ends of the hair. If it cuts it kind of jagged, it's going to look kind of fuzzy so I want a nice sharp clean scissor.  

Combing the Section

Now from here I want to focus on how I'm combing the section. You'll notice when I hold the comb it's two fingers on one side, a thumb and a pinky on the other side. So that allows me to flip the comb and control it like this which is important for building tension. So I'll go through, I'll take a section right in the center. Each section that I take is going to be a flat section of head. So when I hold the comb against the head it's going to be flat. So I'm not cutting across any curved sections. So now from here I comb away from me so that I make sure I get all the hair at the scalp combed clean. If I don't get the hair combed clean from the scalp it's going to leave me an inconsistently cut line. So comb with the teeth facing away from my fingers and then I rock and rotate and I put my finger in. I just hold, put the finger on top. I do not drag that finger through creating any kind of tension. The only tension that this section has is the tension that was created in the comb. Now from here I want the comb to be perpendicular to the hair. I'm not going to turn this up and make it easier for me to see. I want to make sure that this is perpendicular to the hair where I want the line to be cut.  

Making the Cut

Scissor push is compensated for. Cutting on the backstroke. Now we have a perfectly clean cut line. On a human I will comb that down, get that little piece out of the way, and then cut this on the skin to compensate for any graduation that I get from my fingers. The next section, I will then with the head comb straight down. I'll compensate. So this is the angle. It matches on both sides so I comb that section, T to my parting. I do not put my fingers in, create tension and drag that section because then I'm going to have inconsistent tension throughout the section because my fingers are not going to be perfectly even. I'm going to have gaps. And where I have gaps it's not going to create the same tension. So I'm going to comb this down. The only tension that's being created is from the comb. Plant my finger. There's my guide. Put my scissor in. Cut on the back stroke to compensate. Boom! Perfectly clean blunt solid line. And we're going to do the same thing on the other side and match that as best we can. Comb down, create my tension, there's my scissor guide from the previous section in the center. Compensate. Check that out. Here I'm going to look and see if my sides are even and it looks like the left is a little longer. So instead of freaking out and crying I'm just going to go back and cut that side a little bit shorter. And I will take that in baby steps. And there is my line. Cut that down and through. Boom. A little nibble right there. Now let's check and see and that's looking pretty good. Now we've got our first section. So now we're going to go through and take a parallel section to that previous section which was what we took in the very beginning. Now we're going to take the rest of this section that we sectioned off in the nape and I'm going to go through and do exactly the same thing that I did before.  

Cutting on Top of the Previously Cut Section in this Blunt Shoulder Length Bob

Take the center section again. I want to make sure that it's flat. Comb that down. The only tension I get is from the comb itself. I'll lay my fingers right there where the previously cut section was, find my guide underneath, go through, compensate for scissor push and we are going to do what is technically the hardest thing to do in cutting hair and that's cutting this section directly on top of the previously cut section. That's the hardest thing you'll ever do when you're trying to cut hair. Everything else pales in difficulty compared to this section right here because I cannot be longer which this, if I'm like really neurotic about it is a little bit longer. So I'm going to go back in and try to cut just a whisper of hair off. That brings me to the next point that we really need to pay attention to and that is consistency of technique. So when we comb it's consistent every time that we comb down and through. When I hold it it’s consistently the same and when I cut it's consistently the same. If it's not I'm going to have a lot of difficulty. Let me cut this. I can't talk and cut at the same time. I'm going to have a lot of difficulty repeating my cut line so I have to practice and comb and rehearse my skills over and over and over again just like a piano player would play, you know the scales and the chopsticks or whatever finger exercises that they have to get so that they can repeat the method every time and be exactly the same. That's only going to come with practice. Next section. Comb clean from the root all the way down through. There is my previously cut guide. Cut on top of that and that actually looks pretty good. I'm impressed by that section there. Wow. Don't expect that level of quality every time I cut but sometimes you're going to hit it right on top. You're going to hit the nail in the head. Remember it's not about being perfect on every little section. It's about you're perfect the majority of the haircut because there are going to be sections that I cut on this haircut that are not going to be right. They're going to be a little too short. They're going to be a little too long. A little too long is easier to fix than a little too short because if I go a little too short then I have to go back and cut the whole thing again just a little bit shorter. If it's a little bit longer it's easy to go back in and clean that up. So now we're going to look at this, see how that's looking and I got a little graduation right here. So I'm going to comb that down in my comb, cut that little bit off. Easy right? Easy. It's a simple concept but it's not easy to execute. You have to practice and be diligent with your technique to get this really clean. So now let's just continue on.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Starting in the center again where it's flat, get all this hair out of the way. Make sure the head is even and she's not sitting all cockeyed. Comb clean from the root all the way down, flip the comb creates the tension, plant my fingers. There's my guide. Cut directly on top of my previously cut section. Not shorter. Not longer. Directly on top. We've got everything done up into the ear section. So now we're going to bring this section down and I'm going to go through and do the same thing I was doing before just continuing to go up the head taking each individual subsection, combing everything down including the previously cut sections as my guide.  

Compensating for the Ear 

And as I go up it gets easier and easier to see my guide. Now as I start to come around to the ear I have to approach that in a different way because I have this protrusion sticking out from the head that if I just comb the hair over it and pull it down it's going to compress the ear and then when I let go the ears going to flip up and then it's going to make this section get shorter. So what I'll do is I'll cut all the way up to the ear, get the ear hair and the ear out of the way so I don't have to deal with it until it's absolutely necessary. There's my guide. Cut directly on top of that as best you can. Clean that up as best as you can. Now as I come to the ear the way I'm going to deal with that is...there's a lot of different ways to deal with this section. There's no one way that is the end all be all way because the hair is different. Some hair is more voluminous and it gives you a lot more slop factor so it gives you more of a safety net that you don't have to worry about it. Thinner hair you have to worry about it more because it's more visible and it shows all the flaws of your technique. And if that hair gets shorter because I pulled it down, it's going to spring up. My line is going to go nice and straight and then have a nice little hole and continue straight again forward. So what I tend to do is I'll take the ear section, I'll comb everything down over the ear. Make sure that I go underneath the ear as I continue down and once I get here I'll gently hold the hair take the scissor and push under the ear so it starts to see the ear protrude from that section and it allows this hair right here to get pulled up. And then I will hold that down and cut that straight across. So now when I comb this down you're going to see how that gets a little bit longer right through there. I'm going to then ignore that because I have to cut it again once it's dry to clean it up. So that gives me a compensation over the ear so that when I dry it there I can fine tune it. Dry hair is not going to be as susceptible to graduation elevation from tension or through the protrusion of the ear as wet hair will be. The next section comb that straight down, no tension. There's my guide. Cut that straight and through. We're going to check and make sure our sides are even and that's looking pretty good. Now we're going to continue on until we run out of hair. Alright, so I think we got everything looking pretty good. So now let's go through and blow it dry. I'm going to blow dry as straight and as smooth as I can so that we can reveal the cut line as cleanly as we can reveal it.   Follow us on your favorite social media platform @jataifeather  

Blow Drying & Styling the Short Blunt Cut Bob Hairstyle

So we've gone through and blown everything dry. Got everything nice and smooth. Now I'm just going to go through and comb everything down and its natural fall and especially over the ears here to see if my little ear push compensated enough or it was too much. So we're going to comb everything down and I'm going to look and it looks like I've got a little bit right through there so I'm just going to go through and just freehand and take anything off right through there that I feel like doesn't really fit. Get that out of your face. There you go. You look like a million dollars. Thanks for watching. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there that'll make you better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and until next time thank you for watching.  

Final Blunt Short Hair Bob Look

Here is the final look of the mid length blunt bob.   When you look at pictures of blunt haircuts, you might see a blunt bob with fringe, a blunt bob with side part, chin bob hairstyles or short angled bob haircuts. Blunt haircuts have many looks. Creating that perfectly straight line can be a defining feature of the look you're trying to create so it's best to know proper technique so you too can have the perfect blunt line. When it comes to hairstyles, doing a blunt cut bob for fine hair is pretty much the same as cutting a mid length bob for thick hair. The difference is that with fine hair you have to be more careful as you will see any flaws in your technique. Master this technique and you can do a blunt line on any type of hair with ease.

The medium crew cut is a very classic crew look that many men sport. You might also compare it to an ivy league crew or short crew cut. Crew cuts are very versatile and are generally short on the sides and back with a slightly longer top. The style is a popular men's haircut and it's easy to see why! Crew cut hairstyles generally don't have a very short taper fade and definitely not a skin fade. The hair is slightly longer than that. And because it's more of a rounded look, it doesn't have a flat top. It's not a buzz cut either. You can do this type of cut on curly hair but you will have to pay a little more attention to details. Watch this tutorial taught by Russell Mayes and learn how to do a crew cut. Also, follow along with the transcript.

Medium Crew Cut Tutorial:

  Welcome back to the JATAI Academy! Today we're going to be doing a study on how to do a crew cut. So let's get started. So today we're going to talk about doing a crew cut. Before we get started it's good to know the differences between a typical crew cut and then just most masculine shortcuts. A crew cut is basically a short back and sides and a little longer on top which is very common. But most short masculine cuts have a squarish shape, where a crew cut tends to have a rounder shape and tends to be a little shorter on top. Now it gives you a lot of versatility. You can either go longer in the front and then blend that through or you can take everything kind of short on top. Or it can be equal to the sides so you have a lot of versatility and a lot of variation. So what we're going to cover today is we're going to take everything short in the sides and back and we're going to leave the top a little longer, a little longer here in the front as well. And then we're going to comb everything forward and see what we got.  

Classic Crew Cut Clipper Over Comb

So starting I'm going to start in the back and I can take a clipper and I can put a guard on it and I can run it up the back normally like I would taper most haircuts but today what I'm going to do is I'm going to work on my clipper over comb. So doing some clipper over comb work, I'm going to make sure I comb everything straight down. And clipper over comb is about getting a rhythm of the clipper motion across the comb. When I put the comb in, I angle it at whatever angle that I want my graduation to be, my taper to be, and then I just follow that up the top. Now when I first start there's no guide so I'm basically just using the force to guess where I want my tapering to be and then I can use that as my guide for going to the left and my guide for going to the right. So what that looks like is I'll turn the clipper on, put the comb in, angle that out from the scalp at whatever angle that I think I need. And then that's the angle I'm going to go up and then run the clipper across the comb. And here I'm basically just guessing at what length I want this to be. I'm not being very discerning about how perfect it is. I'm just looking for the overall lengths and I think we can go a little shorter there. So we're going to take that a little shorter through there as well. And now as I start to go up the back of the head I want to fight the urge that I have of up and out because that's most of my training is always short and up and out. But a crew cut is up and over so it keeps that shape kind of round. So once I get my basic taper in like this then I can start to work one side or the other. Now I've got my guide in the middle. I use that as my guide and then just cut this side off here. Now as I press the clipper against the comb I'm not using a lot of force. Right? It's just very lightly tracing the comb. Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future JATAI videos. And I'm just going to follow that up and through. I want to make sure that I'm not holding my breath because if I hold my breath, I tend to make my hand shake. And when you're using clipper over comb like this you want to keep as steady a hand as possible. Working that up and through. Now once I reach the mastoid which is this bump right behind the ear, I've got everything cut through here like I want. I'm not too worried about my blend right here. We'll get to that when I start using my scissors. I'm just working on tapering everything down nice and smooth. Once I get to the mastoid I'm now going to skip and go right to the sides. Now on my side I'm going to start here at the ear and I'm going to go short and work that straight up, work everything straight up. I am tapering it in two dimensions here. I'm tapering it going from ear up and I'm tapering it from the front going back. Now once I've gotten everything cut to the top of the ear I will then go through and blend at this angle and that angle is usually going to be parallel to my front hairline. It's going to be parallel to this hairline from the mastoid down to the corner of the hairline. So I'm trying to keep everything even and smooth because most head shapes arc down a little bit. So if I continue that all the way through the back I'm going to end up cutting the crown too short and it's going to make his head shape look funky. So this ensures that I don't cut my crown completely out of it. Check that out, see how we're looking. I'm going to take a little tighter right down here in the nape. Now once I've got the sides and the back done and I got my transition from the front to the back I'm going to go through and do the same thing to the other side.  

Crew Hair Cut Scissor Cutting

So now we've gone through and we've shampooed our model. Gloriously I might say. Now let's work on cutting the length on the top and blending that into the sides. If you've seen previous videos, you've seen me do a walking guide. I'll take the first section here on the side and I'll cut that length. I'll add the second section into the first and combine them and make one section. So I have section one and two combined. Cut that into the center. I'll remove section one. I have section two and three combined. Section three and four and four and five and so on and I'll walk that guide length all the way around the back of the head. I'm going to do the same thing here on the top, but I'm not going to take any sections. I'm going to do a very classic barber approach where I'm going to start in the front. I'm going to pull the front back to maintain length and then I'm going to walk my guide all the way through in the back. And as long as I'm consistent about how much I'm moving each time going back I'll end up with a nice clean line. So I've got my section. I'm going to comb everything forward. I'm going to comb everything back to where I think the recession is or maybe a little bit further back. I'm going to pull that up and then I'm going to go through and cut whatever length that I want. So now I've got my whole guide linked on the top. I'm going to go to the left, cut that through and I'm rounding the shape out. Usually I keep that shape pretty square and I am using my Osaka Scissors from Jatai because I have a little bit more blade length and it's got a little bit more weight to it so I can cut a thicker section of hair. I don't need to be real precise with it. Now I'm going to go back a finger length back, and I'm going to cut using my guide length from the front. I'll go a finger length back, cut using that guide length from the front. A finger length back, same thing and I'm going to keep going until I run out of hair in the crown. As long as I'm methodical with how far back I'm moving each time, I'll end up with a nice clean line. Comb forward again and now I'm going to start working on the left side. I have two guides. I have a guide in the front and a guide in the center. And I'm cutting that following both of those two guides from the front and working that all the way into the back. This is a very very quick fast way of going through and motoring through a lot of hair. I'm not worried about being real precise with everything. I just want to be very very methodical in my approach. As I work that around, go through, we'll check this out from the other angle. Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. So now after I've got all the top done, I'm not worried about blending on the sides right now. We'll get that last. But after I've cut the whole top I want to go through and cross cut it the same way. I'm going to pull everything into the center and any little bits that may hang out I'm just going to go through and trim. And there's not a whole lot because I was very very consistent with moving my fingers back at an equal distance every time. So just go through just cross check anything that hangs out. There's a little nibble there. I'm just going to go through and clean that up. This is just to make sure everything grows out nice and smooth.  

Men Crew Cut - Blending

Okay so now that we've got everything cut on the top and blend that into the back, I want to make sure everything blends in my transitions from the top to the bottom. So I'll just take vertical sections. You can see where my tapering was and I'm just going to go through and make sure everything blends from the bottom to the top. And I'm going to work that line up and over and blend in. Now if you feel more comfortable starting in the front and then working to the back that's perfectly fine. There's no correct method of where you start versus where you finish. What ultimately matters is that everything blends and is proper and fits the head shape. Follow us on all your favorite social media such as Instagram @jataifeather And everything's looking pretty smooth through there. If I find I got a little bit too much taper through there, I can go through and this works really well with my Osaka Scissors because they're so much longer than the other scissors that I have. I've got that extra blade length that makes it easy for me to go through and scissor over comb.  

Mens Crew Cut Fringe

Looking pretty good. Same thing on the other side. So all that leaves us now is to deal with our fringe in the front, our bangs in the front. So depending upon if I want this brushed up and back. Right? Very very collegiate that way. Or I can have it much shorter and kind of combed over. There's a lot of things that I can do to this. So it just depends upon how short you want this and what look you're going for and how their hair reacts. If they have a lot of cowlicks then probably longer is better so you can control it a little bit easier. So let's go through and just keep it fairly long but I'm going to even it up so it doesn't come to a point in the front. So when I do that I'm going to take and I'm going to pull it out at that angle and then we're going to go through and point cut this through. A point cut soft line is going to be much more pliable and movable than if I was to cut that blunt. Blunt lines tend to not move as easy as soft textured cut lines. Just go through take a little bit of that corner off right there. Looking pretty good. See that little corner right there. It's very subtle but that subtlety will make a big difference. The only other thing I might add is if the person has wavy hair or has a lot of cowlicks or they have a bunch of indentations in their head and their heads not smooth you may get some darkness and some lightness through there you can't blend out very easily. Tracing this Crew Cut for Men Then I'm going to go through with my Tokyo Thinning Scissors. I'm going to put the cutting blade on the bottom and then I'm going to go through and just trace what was already cut. I'm not trying to go back in and re-cut anything. I'm just tracing that previously cut taper that I put in through there and that will make everything mesh together and blend a lot smoother. And this will also help with any kind of waviness that's starting to stick out or kick out it will soften that line and like I said in the bangs it will make it much more pliable and much easier to move. With my Tokyo Thinning Scissors take that little nibble off right there, that doesn't want to act right. There we go. Much better. Looks pretty good. We got a nice even smooth clipper over comb around the bottom. We got a nice round shape on top, a little longer in the front. You can puff that up. You can bring it down. You got a lot of variety there that you'd like. You can comb it and make him look very very Wall Street or you can crop the whole thing up make him look very edgy. Yes you need to look... well no maybe not that edgy. Well only on the weekend okay. Only on the weekend. Anyway, kind of looks like Kyle McLaughlin to me. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there that'll make you a better hairdresser, make you better barber. You can also check links below to find the scissors that I use. They're fantastic and for the price it's hard to beat. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and until then I shall see you next time. Thank you so much for watching!  

Final Look of the Crew Cut Haircut

  A crew cut can complement any face shape and can pair with facial hair. The modern crew cut is worn by many boys and men for it's versatile look. We hope this crew cut style haircut tutorial was easy to follow along and understand.

Creating a disconnected layers haircut can be a little scary sometimes. When hairdressing you want to make sure you take care of your client in the salon and give them what they want. Sometimes clients don't really understand the implications of their requests and what that can do to the outcome of the haircut. A disconnected haircut is sometimes one of those haircuts where you have to be careful of how you approach it. Hair cutting to create disconnection is ok as long as it's not over the top (for most clients). Long disconnected layers can look really nice, but it should be done in a way that doesn't give a mushroom look to the hair or give too much disconnection. Disconnected layers hairstyles can bring more life to the hair and all volume. But when doing a disconnected long layers haircut, perhaps the technique below will give the results you're looking for. Here's how to cut disconnected layers with seamless ease! Follow along with this video tutorial or the transcript below:

Disconnected Layers Haircut

  Welcome to Jatai Academy! I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing some layering but the layering is going to be disconnected. In the end it's all going to blend seamlessly. It's a really good way to go from really short layering to really long in length very easily. You curious? Let's get started.  

Sectioning the Disconnected Layers Haircut

Okay so let's get started here. We're taking a natural or center part right down the center of the head to the crown, from the crown (the drop crown actually) I'm going to go to the top of the ear using my Feather Styling Razor that gives me a good sharp edge to cut with, but it has a little bit of guard to keep me protected from cutting my fingers.  

Setting the Perimeter Length

So with my Feather Styling Razor I'm combing everything straight down at zero elevation and going through and taking a pretty deep channel and purposefully trying to cut a point into the hair. So I want the perimeter length to have a lot of separation. So by going through and holding this down at zero elevation and taking a channel cut all the way until I cut the section off I can end up with pieces that really separate and flick apart on the bottom. We've cut the bottom part. Now we're going to move up to the top of the head and it's the same pattern that I was using before, combing everything down, finding my guide underneath going through channel cutting and cutting my length off so that I can get that nice soft pieciness on the bottom. Now if I go through and do this with the scissor it's not going to have the same kind of flow and here you can see we got a nice separation on the bottom and it's still got a nice blunt shape.  

Addressing the Front

From there we're going to move around to the front and I'm going to take the first bump of the head from the parting over to the high point of the hairline over the ear. Then we're going to go back right in the center, take a triangular section, comb that down to where I want my length, cut that, comb everything else forward using that front as my guide. I'm now going to cut my short piece in the center of the front and angle that line down into my perimeter length. I still want to keep a nice smooth razor stroke on both sides so that I can get it to match. Now going back into the center you'll notice I'm cutting from the center of the face down as opposed to cutting from my fingertip into to the palm of my hand. This way the hair is going to flow the same way on both sides. I want to match both sides with my razor action so that I can get that same kind of movement and flow. Here I'm just going to comb everything else from the back of the head down and forward and anything that would hang off my perimeter line that I cut around my face framing. Anything that hangs over I'll cut that off. So here I'm keeping a solid perimeter shape by keeping my elevation low, but I'm keeping the perimeter texture soft by using a razor.   Check out @jataifeather on your favorite social media platform. We've got all of them. We'd love to hear from you.  

Step Layering for a Disconnected Layers Haircut

So now we're going to continue on. I'm sectioning off the head and the four quadrants. Center and then from the high point of the head to the high point of the ear. Here I'll take one quarter and I'll hold that down and where I want my shortest layering to hit I'm going to pull that section straight up in the air hair and cut that really short. Now with someone as long as her hair is this is going to give you a little pause for concern because you're going to think 'Oh my gosh! That's going to be too short.' But what we're going to go through and do is we're going to disconnect each step of our layering. So there's my first section right there. You can see it underneath and I'm going to go about an inch longer than that. I'm not going to blend it through. It's about an inch longer but the razor stroke will give me a nice soft line that will easily allow everything to blend through. I'm going to take my next section, comb that straight up into my previously cut sections and you'll see my guides drop out. There's the first one. There's the second one. Now I'm going to go about an inch longer going through with my razor keeping the same methodology that I was doing before and going through and using a broad razor stroke cutting that length off. So by going through and doing this kind of step layering it's going to allow you to build up a lot of length really really quickly. So I can keep the crown very very short and easily blend through my layering down through the bottom without having to over direct in some really steep angle that I'm trying to blend it through. This will go through and create a tremendous amount of length very quickly and since I'm using a razor it's going to keep everything nice and soft and it's going to blend through. Here's our last section. Just a last little piece there. Everything blends. Now look at that. That's layered very very short but I still have a solid perimeter shape. Now we're going to take our guide from the first section on the left side. Now I'm going to take my section on the right side. Now this part here on the right side (you can see my triangular section right there) this part here I'm going to cut the same length as my parting on the opposite side because this is the new guide for the right side. So I want to start with the same length on the top and then I will completely ignore all the guides on the left side of the head and comb up and cut this about an inch longer than my previously cut section. Please give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content. Now here we've gone through and done both sides. You can see we got a nice smooth layering with lots of separation and lots of pieciness in the back.  

Back to the Front

Now we're going to go through and do the front. We're going to take the same kind of triangular sections that we were working on. There's my guide from the back. It just dropped out and then I'm going to go through and razor that off with the same methodology that I was doing in the back. But around the front I want to be very very conscientious that I'm going to build this up pretty quickly and you can see my guides drop out from the back so it will blend front to back and top to bottom. But I want to pay attention to make sure I don't get my layering not stepped enough to where I end up giving mullet layers, where I cut my layering so short around the front that I lose all that length right around the front. Combing this up, the very last piece. There's very little right there. Oh and we just dropped the comb and she's laughing at me. It's that kind of day and here we go through and check out everything.  

Blow Drying and Styling a Disconnected Layers Haircut

We see our layering blends front to back side to side and now we're going to blow it dry and see how we look. On this I start blowing the roots dry first and then I'll go through with a round brush just to get a little bit of a set so I can have a nice amount of volume and a nice little bit of curl pattern to it. Around the front just curling it to one side to kind of get some flow, get it out of her face. Now we're going to hit it with some cold air to kind of set that movement into it. When the hair gets hot it becomes pliable. I can pull the natural shape out of it. When it cools down it will re-harden in whatever shape that I want and that's how I go through and style the hair to have body and some fullness to it. And I think this looks pretty good. We got the layering really short, but we still have a good solid perimeter shape. We got a lot of movement to it. The texture is there and I think that this works really well with her hair. I like it. Thanks for watching. Check out the Jatai Academy for more information and more content to make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and we'll see you next time.  

Final Disconnected Layers Haircut Look

  Now you know what is a disconnected haircut and how to create it. Disconnected haircuts are a beautiful way to add some life to long hair. We hope you gained some knowledge here and incorporate it in the salon!