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Disconnected Layers Haircut Razor Tutorial

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Creating a disconnected layers haircut can be a little scary sometimes. When hairdressing you want to make sure you take care of your client in the salon and give them what they want. Sometimes clients don’t really understand the implications of their requests and what that can do to the outcome of the haircut. A disconnected haircut is sometimes one of those haircuts where you have to be careful of how you approach it. Hair cutting to create disconnection is ok as long as it’s not over the top (for most clients).

Long disconnected layers can look really nice, but it should be done in a way that doesn’t give a mushroom look to the hair or give too much disconnection. Disconnected layers hairstyles can bring more life to the hair and all volume. But when doing a disconnected long layers haircut, perhaps the technique below will give the results you’re looking for. Here’s how to cut disconnected layers with seamless ease!

Follow along with this video tutorial or the transcript below:

Disconnected Layers Haircut

 

Welcome to Jatai Academy! I’m Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we’re going to be doing some layering but the layering is going to be disconnected. In the end it’s all going to blend seamlessly. It’s a really good way to go from really short layering to really long in length very easily. You curious? Let’s get started.

 

Sectioning the Disconnected Layers Haircut

Okay so let’s get started here. We’re taking a natural or center part right down the center of the head to the crown, from the crown (the drop crown actually) I’m going to go to the top of the ear using my Feather Styling Razor that gives me a good sharp edge to cut with, but it has a little bit of guard to keep me protected from cutting my fingers.

 

Setting the Perimeter Length

So with my Feather Styling Razor I’m combing everything straight down at zero elevation and going through and taking a pretty deep channel and purposefully trying to cut a point into the hair.

So I want the perimeter length to have a lot of separation. So by going through and holding this down at zero elevation and taking a channel cut all the way until I cut the section off I can end up with pieces that really separate and flick apart on the bottom.

We’ve cut the bottom part. Now we’re going to move up to the top of the head and it’s the same pattern that I was using before, combing everything down, finding my guide underneath going through channel cutting and cutting my length off so that I can get that nice soft pieciness on the bottom.

Now if I go through and do this with the scissor it’s not going to have the same kind of flow and here you can see we got a nice separation on the bottom and it’s still got a nice blunt shape.

 

Addressing the Front

From there we’re going to move around to the front and I’m going to take the first bump of the head from the parting over to the high point of the hairline over the ear.

Then we’re going to go back right in the center, take a triangular section, comb that down to where I want my length, cut that, comb everything else forward using that front as my guide.

I’m now going to cut my short piece in the center of the front and angle that line down into my perimeter length. I still want to keep a nice smooth razor stroke on both sides so that I can get it to match.

Now going back into the center you’ll notice I’m cutting from the center of the face down as opposed to cutting from my fingertip into to the palm of my hand. This way the hair is going to flow the same way on both sides.

I want to match both sides with my razor action so that I can get that same kind of movement and flow. Here I’m just going to comb everything else from the back of the head down and forward and anything that would hang off my perimeter line that I cut around my face framing. Anything that hangs over I’ll cut that off.

So here I’m keeping a solid perimeter shape by keeping my elevation low, but I’m keeping the perimeter texture soft by using a razor.

 

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Step Layering for a Disconnected Layers Haircut

So now we’re going to continue on. I’m sectioning off the head and the four quadrants. Center and then from the high point of the head to the high point of the ear. Here I’ll take one quarter and I’ll hold that down and where I want my shortest layering to hit I’m going to pull that section straight up in the air hair and cut that really short.

Now with someone as long as her hair is this is going to give you a little pause for concern because you’re going to think ‘Oh my gosh! That’s going to be too short.’ But what we’re going to go through and do is we’re going to disconnect each step of our layering.

So there’s my first section right there. You can see it underneath and I’m going to go about an inch longer than that. I’m not going to blend it through.

It’s about an inch longer but the razor stroke will give me a nice soft line that will easily allow everything to blend through. I’m going to take my next section, comb that straight up into my previously cut sections and you’ll see my guides drop out.

There’s the first one. There’s the second one. Now I’m going to go about an inch longer going through with my razor keeping the same methodology that I was doing before and going through and using a broad razor stroke cutting that length off.

So by going through and doing this kind of step layering it’s going to allow you to build up a lot of length really really quickly. So I can keep the crown very very short and easily blend through my layering down through the bottom without having to over direct in some really steep angle that I’m trying to blend it through.

This will go through and create a tremendous amount of length very quickly and since I’m using a razor it’s going to keep everything nice and soft and it’s going to blend through. Here’s our last section. Just a last little piece there.

Everything blends. Now look at that. That’s layered very very short but I still have a solid perimeter shape. Now we’re going to take our guide from the first section on the left side.

Now I’m going to take my section on the right side. Now this part here on the right side (you can see my triangular section right there) this part here I’m going to cut the same length as my parting on the opposite side because this is the new guide for the right side.

So I want to start with the same length on the top and then I will completely ignore all the guides on the left side of the head and comb up and cut this about an inch longer than my previously cut section.

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Now here we’ve gone through and done both sides. You can see we got a nice smooth layering with lots of separation and lots of pieciness in the back.

 

Back to the Front

Now we’re going to go through and do the front. We’re going to take the same kind of triangular sections that we were working on. There’s my guide from the back.

It just dropped out and then I’m going to go through and razor that off with the same methodology that I was doing in the back. But around the front I want to be very very conscientious that I’m going to build this up pretty quickly and you can see my guides drop out from the back so it will blend front to back and top to bottom.

But I want to pay attention to make sure I don’t get my layering not stepped enough to where I end up giving mullet layers, where I cut my layering so short around the front that I lose all that length right around the front.

Combing this up, the very last piece. There’s very little right there. Oh and we just dropped the comb and she’s laughing at me. It’s that kind of day and here we go through and check out everything.

 

Blow Drying and Styling a Disconnected Layers Haircut

We see our layering blends front to back side to side and now we’re going to blow it dry and see how we look. On this I start blowing the roots dry first and then I’ll go through with a round brush just to get a little bit of a set so I can have a nice amount of volume and a nice little bit of curl pattern to it.

Around the front just curling it to one side to kind of get some flow, get it out of her face. Now we’re going to hit it with some cold air to kind of set that movement into it.

When the hair gets hot it becomes pliable. I can pull the natural shape out of it. When it cools down it will re-harden in whatever shape that I want and that’s how I go through and style the hair to have body and some fullness to it.

And I think this looks pretty good. We got the layering really short, but we still have a good solid perimeter shape. We got a lot of movement to it. The texture is there and I think that this works really well with her hair. I like it.

Thanks for watching. Check out the Jatai Academy for more information and more content to make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you’d like to see in the future and we’ll see you next time.

 

Final Disconnected Layers Haircut Look

 

Now you know what is a disconnected haircut and how to create it. Disconnected haircuts are a beautiful way to add some life to long hair. We hope you gained some knowledge here and incorporate it in the salon!

JATAI

JATAI provides innovative and professional quality beauty implements with world-class customer service and educational support. To offer great products as a master distributor, we seek out and select only manufacturers who demonstrate superior workmanship, the most advanced technology, and respected business core values of reliability, honesty and integrity. Accordingly, JATAI represents three major ‘workhorse’ brands that dominate within their categories. Feather, Seki Edge and Fuji Paper. JATAI Academy brings beauty tools to creative life. It’s the ultimate professional information resource where Education, Artistry and Trends CONNECT for Stylists and Barbers.

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