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Yes and no. What type of hair you can use a razor on depends on the cuticle, more than if it’s curly. Some hair textures respond well while others do not. Some cuticle types tend to bristle when cut at an angle and perform better when blunt cut.
The less of a guard you use, the more control you have when cutting. You can be more precise with your shape and texture as well. But a guarded razor will get you 90 per cent more there than a guardless razor would. Once master cutting with a guard, you may find that you want more control, so move to a razor with either less of a guard or no guard at all … the point here is that you don’t have to use one.
Insider Tips: For the most guarded, I work with the Feather Styling Razor with Standard Blade. For less guard, I recommend the Feather Styling Razor R-Type Blade. For no guard, I reach for my Feather Plier Razor.
The solidity and bluntness of the shape you cut is determined by the stroke of the blade as you are cutting your sections. The larger the stroke of the blade, the more airy and softer the shape. The tighter or smaller the stroke of the blade, the more solid your final haircut shape will be.
This depends on the cuticle texture and the sharpness of your blade, as well as your cutting action. Drier textures of hair don’t respond as well to being cut with a razor. If the blade is dull, this will only cause cuticle damage that could easily have been prevented by using a fresh blade. Also, if your cutting action isn’t positive or determined, you will partially cut strands without cutting them all the way through, which results in a less-than-solid shape.
No, you can do as much or as little as needed, determined by your desired results. You can cut the hair blunt with scissors and then soften up the shape afterward with your razor. You can cut the entire shape with a razor, and then make the perimeter shape more blunt with scissors.
Insider Tip: To soften up the shape after scissor cutting, the Feather Texturizing Blade (fits all Feather Styling Razors) works well. It’s designed to cut hair in small sections to blend and texture hair. Blade changing is easy and safe.
Russell Mayes is the Director of Content for the Jatai Academy and owner/founder of Bauhaus Hair in Orange, CA. This trendsetting artist, educator, and mentor to many “aspires to combine the eye of the artist, the mind of the engineer, and the hands of a craftsman to create stylish and modern beautiful hair." Blending his super technical approach with the visual free form of today’s styles is his expertise. He also runs the website www.hairmentor.com. www.bauhaushair.com; Instagram: @russelllmayeshair