Get the latest Academy content and special deals direct to your inbox
Hair in the 1990s had some notable styles that have remained iconic to this day. One of the most popular were Gwen Stefani hairstyles and particularly the one where her hair flips out. Of course, Jennifer Aniston also had the iconic Friends hairstyle that everyone remembers. Learn how to re-create that fun 90s layered look with this blended Jennifer Aniston and Gwen Stefani hair tutorial!
Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. I’m Russell Mayes Director of Content. Today we’re going to be doing ’90s layering. Layering in the 90s was all about getting the hair to flip out and to get some pieciness to it and some softness and a lot of movement to it. It was about having glamour but a casualness to the glamour, a more of a lived in kind of glamour.
So we’re going to use Gwen Stefani and Jennifer Aniston as our inspiration and I’m going to show you how to get the hair to piece out and flip on the bottom, how to get some fullness and force the hair to flip. So let’s get started.
Okay I’m going to start with a natural center part. So I’m going to start right in the middle. Take a flat section right there in the center. This is going to be my guide length for both sides of the head.
Now when I comb this, I’m going to comb this just like I do all of my other perimeter shapes. I’m combing clean from the root down. Once I get to my fingers I am going to switch it up because the 90s layering is all about hair that flips and has a lot of movement and a lot of flickiness to it. And to encourage that I am going to turn my fingers up.
So as I point cut, that’s going to slightly cut the top layer of this section shorter than the underneath and will encourage it to flip. We’re going to comb everything straight down. I am using my Jatai Osaka Scissor. This is 5-1/2.”
It’s got a good amount of sharpness to it and it’s got a nice blade point to it so I can go through and point cut this very easily, making sure that the line is even on both sides but not necessarily blunt.
I want this to have some soft separation so I’m going through and doing an exaggerated point cut with my fingers flipped. After I finished the first section I’m going to continue taking parallel sections all the way up the head until I run out of hair and I have cut my entire perimeter shape.
My next section here I’m going to start right in the center again. I’m going to comb everything out of the way. In the middle, comb everything straight down curving my fingers up as I go through and point cut that through.
Next section, there’s my guide from underneath, a nice exaggerated point cut as I continue to work from the center of the back into the sides of the head. Exaggerating my flip.
Aright so we got our last section here. We’re going to comb everything down, still flipping my fingers, making sure everything blends through. Length is looking pretty good. So now let’s move on to our layering.
Okay on my layering we’re going to start right in the center. I’m going to take a center section and where it’s flat that’s going to determine the width of my section so I got a center section from the front running all the way down to the center of the back.
So now I’m going to right at the crown, separate the front from the back. Straight up in the air measure where I want that to hit around her face. Let’s start with about right there. Go through deep point cut that to keep the textures the same and to keep my layering really flicky.
I’ll take a small piece as my guide. I’ll take the next section working towards the back. Comb everything clean from the root all the way up straight up and cut that horizontally straight across point cutting it to keep the texture really soft and flicky. Small piece as my guide. Go right back to my crown.
There’s that. Cut that all the way through.
So far we’re doing just regular layering, but as of right now to make it 90s, I’m going to take my next guide and from here instead of pulling that at 90 or over-directing up, I am now going to pull this straight out the back. There’s my length.
Cut that straight up and down. My next piece, the perimeter starts to fall out. There’s my guide. Cut that straight up and down. So what I’m effectively doing is leaving a corner in my layering right through the crown.
So what happens is when this falls that’s going to build up weight. Because it’s layered more underneath, it’s going to cause the shape to collapse and force this to flick out even more. So I’m forcing as much flip into this as I can get by layering it this way. Straight across and then once I get to the crown, straight out the back.
The next section parallel to this first section all the way straight back into the crown, into the nape. Pin this hair out of the way and now at this point I’m going to pull everything, this next section, into the center section right here into the center of the head. There’s my guide. Cut that across. Small piece as my guide.
The center section and the new section straight up. There’s my guide length. Everything gets pulled straight up towards the ceiling. I reach the crown right here. Straight up again and I’m pulling everything into the center.
Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather
There’s my guide from underneath and the top. Pulling everything to the center. Come on. There you go. Now we got the first two sections. So now I’m going to take the rest of this whole right side and do exactly the same thing.
I don’t think very much hair is going to reach but I’m going to hold it up and check and make sure that nothing does. And if anything does I’m going to cut it off to the previous guide that I had in the center of the head.
There we go. Small piece is my guide. Quarter part to the crown. Pull everything to the center. Using my center first, mohawk section as my guide, cut that through. Small piece as my guide. Next section pull everything straight back into the center. Cut that down and through.
Now that we’ve cut this whole side, let’s comb it back and take a look at it and see how it’s looking. So as I start to shake it you can automatically see how it’s forcing the hair to flick out into these pieces and it’s getting really separated and you can really see individual little pieces of layers flick out.
So let’s go through and do the same thing on the other side. So since I held everything straight up, I need to go through and make sure that my layering really fits in around the front because if I pull everything straight up when the hair falls, it’s going to show, it’s going to mirror this hairline in the end result of my perimeter.
So when I comb this down, it’s actually going to go back down, recession and then down. So I need to go through and make sure I have a smooth blend so that my layering doesn’t get lumpy around the front. Very simply take the first bump of the head to the high point of the ear over the hairline.
Do this on both sides. So now that I got this sectioned out. This is all the hair that has the ability to fall in the face. So I want to make sure that that smoothly blends and it doesn’t reflect the hairlines from me pulling it up.
So we’ll comb this forward. Now I don’t want to go through and recut everything. I just want to go through and blend this line around the front. So I’ll take a deep point cut. Take half of it to the right side and half of it to the left. I’ll continue to hold this hair straight down combing it clean from the part all the way through and clean up any little discrepancies that I have from pulling it up in the air.
We’re going to continue. Comb everything straight down a natural fall. Place our fingers. You can see right through there. So I’m going to take a little bit of that out, a little bit below it.
I want to cut that a little deeper there. There we go. I like that. So now I have that blended so I don’t have to worry about my face framing being lumpy. Alright, so let’s blow it dry see what we got.
Here’s our end result. I think we’re looking pretty good. I think this is you know very much spot on to what Gwen Stefani was doing when she was going to all the award shows in the 90s and she grew her hair out. She was wearing the flip, but it’s also reminiscent of Jennifer Anderson when she had her Rachel cut where it was really layered but it was flippy on the bottom.
And I think the flip gives it a more casual kind of glamour as opposed to this overtly voluminous glamour. And I think it’s a nice little technique to have in your back pocket when you need it.
So check out the Jatai Academy. There’s all kinds of great information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you like to see in the future and we will see you next time. Thank you so much for watching.
JATAI provides innovative and professional quality beauty implements with world-class customer service and educational support. To offer great products as a master distributor, we seek out and select only manufacturers who demonstrate superior workmanship, the most advanced technology, and respected business core values of reliability, honesty and integrity. Accordingly, JATAI represents three major ‘workhorse’ brands that dominate within their categories. Feather, Seki Edge and Fuji Paper. JATAI Academy brings beauty tools to creative life. It’s the ultimate professional information resource where Education, Artistry and Trends CONNECT for Stylists and Barbers.